Escape to Varzi: Where History, Landscapes and Flavour blend for the perfect Slow Travel Experience!

Why do we base so many of our tours around the charming village of Varzi? Varzi is renowned for its mouth-watering salame and so much more. It captured our hearts back in 1996, when we visited on our honeymoon, and then again when we lived there for 2 years with our young boys. It’s my father-in-law’s hometown, and Jim and I are proud to share it with our guests. We now live in Varzi for a few months of the year, a beautiful home away from home. Varzi is a treasure trove of history, stunning landscapes, and delectable cuisine. Nestled in the picturesque Oltrepò Pavese, about 70 km south of Milan, it serves as a perfect weekend getaway for the Milanese, many of whom return to their family homes here during the summer vacation.

Varzi is undoubtedly one of Lombardy’s most enchanting spots. With over eight centuries of history, it is delightful to wander through its heart, where cobblestone streets and historic buildings tell tales of the past. Fascinatingly, the ancient arcades, dating back to the 14th century, were ingeniously built one above the other providing shelter for travelling merchants. The original gateways to Varzi are still there for you to explore - Porta Soprana and Porta Sottana date back to the 13th century. Nestled just behind the local cafes and small businesses, the iconic Malaspina Castle stands as a testament to history, once serving as the residence of a renowned ruling family and even hosting Dante in 1306. Nearby, the Witches’ Tower carries its own eerie legends, where many unfortunate women were burned at the stake and numerous other prisoners also met their grim fate.

Situated in the heart of the picturesque Staffora Valley, Varzi offers stunning views and a tranquil environment. The square called the Piazza della Fiera, is the hub of village life. This is where we base our accommodation. You can step out of your hotel and into the piazza to enjoy the local cafes and restaurants, or simply relax in the public gardens nearby. It is a place that you can get to know and make your own very quickly. One of our guests this year summed up exactly how we would like you to feel when you stay with us in Varzi:

“Jim and Lynette are such excellent hosts. We felt we were part of their family as they introduced us to their friends and contacts in and around Varzi. They were so considerate during our walks, attending to each personal preference or need and ensuring all were able to gain full enjoyment from the landscape, the terrain and the villages we entered. And the food! Fresh, local and prepared and presented with care, it more-than-satisfied the eyes, the palate and the appetites we worked up during our daily hikes. We highly commend this as an outstanding experience and a wonderful holiday.”

Peter and Marion 12-day Walks and Wonders Tour 2024

Varzi is also a food lover’s paradise. From its famous salame to other local delicacies, your taste buds are in for a treat here! The town’s most famous culinary product, Salame di Varzi, is a Protected Designation of Origin (DOP) delicacy. Made from the best cuts of pork and seasoned with a blend of spices, it is aged in natural cellars to develop its unique flavour. There are many of these cellars throughout the streets of Varzi. If you’re lucky you might see one open as you wander around. The salame is known for its delicate taste with a slightly sweet and aromatic profile. It pairs perfectly with Bonarda dell’Oltrepò Pavese, a red wine known for its fruity notes and fine bubbles, or Sangue di Giuda, a sweet red wine made from Croatina and Barbera grapes, often enjoyed with desserts or as an aperitivo. Varzi is also known for its delicious, traditional Almond Cake, which is like a large, rich almond-flavoured biscuit. 

Varzi is a part of the famous Oltrepò Pavese wine region, offering exquisite wines like Bonarda, Barbera, Buttafuoco, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Nero/Noir (both red and white Metodo Classico sparkling versions), and the intriguingly named Sangue di Giuda (Blood of Judas). The Oltrepo Pavese wine region is a significant producer of Pinot Nero grapes, accounting for approximately 75-80% of Italy’s total Pinot Nero production.



Exploring the culinary delights of Oltrepò Pavese is a feast for the senses, offering a taste of the region’s rich heritage and authentic flavours. Whether you’re savouring the delicate Formaggella di Menconico or indulging in the robust flavours of Ravioli al Brasato di Varzi, each bite tells a story of tradition and craftsmanship.

Did you know that Varzi is home to its very own breed of cow? The Varzese cow is particularly notable for its adaptability and resilience. It is considered a triple-purpose breed, meaning it is used for milk, meat, and work. It was commonly used in rice paddies and for pulling work tools and carts. Thanks to the efforts of local breeders, it has been brought back from the brink of extinction. Both cow’s milk and goat’s milk cheeses are produced locally. We’ll take you on a visit to a local farm where they produce goat and cow cheese, and you’ll also have the chance to see the Varzese cow up close.

The area also boasts a variety of fruits, including apples, pears, peaches, strawberries, and cherries. Mushrooms, particularly porcini mushrooms can be found in the forests that surround the village. Many of these forests are made up of chestnut trees. Therefore, you’ll find chestnuts and chestnut flour in numerous local recipes. Varzi is also famous for black truffles, while the woods in a nearby town are known for the delicate and more prized, white truffles.

If you want to experience Varzi firsthand, join us on one of our tours next year. We offer tours during the spring and early summer, when the landscape is lush and green, wildflowers are in full bloom, and the weather is perfect for exploring. It’s the ideal time to enjoy the local red wine and savour the hearty regional dishes! To enquire about one of our tours simply click here.